The Polonia Palace Hotel (2) (0048 2231 82800; ) is another Warsaw landmark, having opened in 1913. After a much-needed facelift, it now offers excellent value for money, a central location near the Palace of Culture and Science, comfortable modern rooms and beautifully restored public areas. Doubles from ?65.

The writer is a former editor of the Wall Street Journal and an Assistant Secretary of the US Treasury.

The controversial creative ingredient aside, Castiglia's paintings primarily feature human figures in distorted and abstract forms that relate easily with the material (blood) used for painting. For instance, a painting named Feeding features a wheelchair bound mother carrying a baby while her legs are sans muscle. It depicts a situation of hope in times of fragility.

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